Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Sherpas, Porters, and Prayer wheels

The people and towns along the trekking route are home to amazing people. Many of these are Sherpas which are thought to be an indigenous mountain people with roots in Tibet. They are frequently Buddhist although the religion blurs with Hindi in Nepal. Sherpas have been living in the mountains for many generations and are interesting to study because they do not seem to be as susceptible to altitude illness as low landers - either Westerners or other Nepalis. Some Sherpas are porters, but many are guides, tea house owners, farmers, or craftsmen.

Not to be confused, a porter is a job title. Porters carry loads sometimes more than their body weight (60+ kg!) up the mountain paths for about 800 rupees a day (~$9-10 USD). That seems like a terrible wage, but its one if the better paying jobs in Nepal. Fascinatingly, the porters usually prefer to carry the load from a strap on their head instead of backpack and waist belt straps like typical backpacking packs. They often strap multiple backpacks together and use their head straps. I wonder if they get neck pain from this, but they never seem to complain. Porters are frequently from the lowlands of Kathmandu and therefore often have altitude illness early in the season before they become acclimatized.

Prayer wheels and mani stones are scattered along the trekking route. They typically have the mantra "om mani padme hum" which literally translates to "praise to the jewel in the lotus" but has a much deeper meaning of the six Buddhist perfections: generosity, ethics, patience, diligence, renunciation, and wisdom. According to the Dali Lama, "Thus the six syllables, om mani padme hum, mean that in dependence on the practice of a path which is an indivisible union of method and wisdom, you can transform your impure body, speech, and mind into the pure exalted body, speech, and mind of a Buddha[...]"

Prayer wheels should be spun clockwise and always passed on the left. There are also many mani stones and stupas which also should always be passed clockwise or on the left. The people drive and walk on the left here as well. The only exception to "stay left" is when passing a yak on a cliff. Then, you should always stay on the mountain-side of the yak. And also mind the yak horns.Prayer wheels are scattered along the trekking route. Prayer wheels should be spun clockwise and always passed on the left. There are also many mani stones and stupas which also should always be passed clockwise or on the left.

The people drive and walk on the left here as well. The only exception to "stay left" is when passing a yak on a cliff. Then, you should always stay on the mountain-side of the yak. Also, mind the yak horns.





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